Welcome to Thee Manor House of Mr. Classic’s Haberdashery, your one stop shop for all MTM and Bespoke Classic Menswear
You will see here your chest canvas and body canvas, which consists of : Horsehair, the canvas which can be heavy or light in weight and the interlining cotton. This is the main construction starting point of your High end MTM and Bespoke suit making process. The canvas is the inner guts of the suit. There are other options which are not as appealing like half canvas or fused canvas.
Now if you have a suit that was made Bespoke or high end MTM, flip over your lapel and you will see these fine little dots. That is not a tailoring mistake or suit defect but rather a way of seeing the workmanship of your master tailor. Some thicker fabrics or patterned fabrics won’t allow you to see this effect but if it’s a well made jacket, it will be there. This only appears when the tailor is hand stitching the canvas to the fabric. Fused * suits will not have this and the easiest way to tell would be to grab your lapel gently and pull the back and front pieces apart. If you hear a ripping sound, that is the glue separating from the fabric. Now the benefits of a hand stitched canvas suit is the long jevity it provides for your jacket and keeps the structure of your lapel looking clean and springy.
The Mr. Classic’s Haberdashery French style shoulder is a mixture between a pagoda shoulder, which is more concave and a British style roped shoulder. This shoulder adds more definition and structure to one’s overall look, with its sharp edged look and military effect. If you are looking to make a strong statement in business and want to be taken seriously, I would recommend this type of shoulder construction.
This British natural style shoulder takes to the customs of the Brits rather well. Not causing too much attention, slightly rounding out the shoulder points to give a slightly athletic look without giving off football pads. If you are in search of something more subtle and discrete, while still staying Classic, this is the right choice for you.
Specifically this shoulder hails from Rome Italy but these days it’s known more so as the Neapolitan shoulder or simply the Italian shoulder. With little to no padding inside, it adds a far more relaxed casual feel to the suit structure. This shoulder allows for far more flexibility and comfort. The effect of the pleats decorating the arm, gives the wearer more room for movement. Also a nice visual effect.
The Notch Lapel is what you would look to find on most blazers and business suits. This lapel is for the individual who does not want to stand out too much. Also for those who want the flexibility of being able to wear this jacket as a stand alone piece with jeans or chinos. For a more casual looking outfit.
The Peak lapel unlike its counterpoint the notch, screams attention. It’s sharp edge rising up to the skies like an eagles wings, is all about letting all onlookers know “ I know style“ . It is definitely a more fashion statement and bold addition to the suit. For those individuals wanting to make more of a statement, this is definitely for you.
The Shawl lapel can be seen in more formal settings on a tuxedo. This lapel leads towards an individual wanting to portray a more debonair classy look. It can commonly be seen in either satin or velvet.
Coming off the edge of your lapel, either peak or notch, you will find a buttonhole, and if it is a well crafted bespoke or MTM suit it can be a Milanese buttonhole. This particular buttonhole is a tailors signature. The calling card to all fine tailors that this was a well crafted suit.
You have definitely noticed on your jacket sleeve these rows of buttons. there might be 2-4 or even 5 if you want that Italian look but did you notice if they are working buttons? So, as far back as when men were always seen in suits, these functioning buttons were known as surgeon cuffs. For the reason being that a surgeon would unbutton them to perform surgery and then be able to roll them back down, button up and continues his day. This was all so he might perform his duties without having to remove his jacket. Now a days it is just a craftsman‘s flair. All the buttonholes done by hand.
The Jetted pockets are going to be seen more so on your tuxedo than suits. It allows for a sleeker look overall. Now you can have that same style pocket on your suit or blazer and it will work just fine. There is also a cheat way getting two for one. Once you read about the “Flap Pocket” you‘ll understand.
The Flap Pocket is the most common you will find on a suit or blazer. It is pretty much a jetted pocket with a flap over the top which has a purpose of keeping things out of your pocket like dust or water. Also to keep things from jumping out, like keys or your phone. Now you really shouldn’t be using these pockets to store thing in anyway.
This uniquely shaped pocket is called the patch pocket. In Italy where it originates from it is called “ a pignata “. Of course being from Italy it has a casual flair to it. This type of pocket you would not put on a business suit or tuxedo.
The Chest pocket is the pocket you will see on your left side of your suit jacket. It also can come in many different styles like the lower pockets. One of the most popular these days is the “A Barchetta” or the little boat. It is an Italian accent and an alternative to the common British straight rectangular chest pocket. This pocket is used for holding your pocket square.
Along the edges of the jacket lapel and sometimes around the edge of the jacket quarters, pockets and even shoulder, you will see this fine dotted line that is done by the tailor as a way of really outlining their work. Its purpose is more ostentatious than it is functional.